Keith Crockford
This Uganda trip was everything I hoped it would be and more. Twelve eager travellers joined me for an unforgettable journey through the Pearl of Africa, and from the moment we touched down in Entebbe, the magic began.
It was a great start to the trip; everyone was on time, and we met up at T4 Heathrow for our flight to Kigali. It was lovely having an evening flight as after one film, it was time for sleep and to hopefully wake up in the morning ready to land in Kigali.
With this trip taking in the best Uganda has to offer, we opted to start the journey in Kampala and over 10 days drive through the countryside and finish in Rwanda for the flight home. Flying with Rwandair meant arriving in Kigali and then a short (1-hour flight) to Entebbe.
If you are a smoker, it is going to cost you £10 to have a cigarette in Kigali airport. They have a phone box in the middle of the airport where it costs you £10 to enter for your cigarette – this was found out by one of our Bucket Listers, much to his disgust!
The flight was all on time, and we collected our bags, met our guides and then went for lunch on the lake before taking the 1-hour drive into Kampala, where we checked into a lovely hotel with a rooftop pool that the guests made us use to freshen up after travelling. It was warm!
Today, we plunged straight into the heart of the city with a walking and vehicle tour. Kampala is a sensory overload in the best way possible. The Mosque, vibrant markets, the chaotic bus terminal, the historical King’s Palace – it was a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and smells. We even got to sample some delicious local cuisine, a perfect introduction to Ugandan flavours.
The afternoon took a more poignant turn. We visited a local slum and visited a charity working within the slum. The charity, Touch the Slum, offers vocational training and holistic literacy for teen mothers, youths and at-risk teen girls. It was a humbling experience, witnessing the realities of life in these communities and having the opportunity to make a small difference by providing the young people with items for their schooling and toys. It was a stark contrast to the earlier city tour but a vital part of understanding Uganda.
An early start saw us embark on a scenic five-hour drive west to Fort Portal, the gateway to Kibale National Park. The journey itself was a treat, winding through Uganda’s verdant landscapes. We had lunch en route and arrived at our hotel late afternoon, and the group had the chance to use the very cold pool and relax before dinner.
Today was all about primates! After breakfast, we ventured into Kibale National Park, renowned for its chimpanzee population. The guided walk through the forest was exhilarating. Our ranger was incredibly knowledgeable, pointing out the diverse flora and fauna. Tracking the chimpanzees was an adventure in itself, and the moment we finally encountered them was pure magic; the noise around the forest just made the hairs on the back of your neck stand on end. We spent a precious four hours observing these incredible creatures in their natural habitat, a truly unforgettable experience. In the afternoon, we explored the Bigodi swamp, spotting a plethora of birds and monkeys. We followed this with a cultural tour of the local village where we saw Coffee being prepared, learn basket weaving and met Banana Man (we might have also tried Banana Beer and Banana Gin, but at 60% proof – its hard to remember!)
Today we journeyed south to Queen Elizabeth National Park, arriving at our lodge in time for lunch. The afternoon brought a relaxing two-hour boat safari on the Kazinga Channel. The channel teemed with wildlife – hippos wallowing in the water with their babies, a few crocodiles in the water, and lots of elephants, including their young! It was a fantastic introduction to the park’s diverse ecosystem. For bird watchers, it was also a great afternoon with plenty to see.
Our guides received news that there was a pride of lions close to where we were, so we decided to move the planned game drive for the following day and head out on our evening game drive today. We weren’t disappointed, we found the pride and spent the evening observing them.
An early start at 6 am was in store for us, for an experiential learning tour with a lion conservation researcher. Using GPS, we tracked collared lions and learnt about their behaviour and the ongoing conservation efforts. We were also super lucky to track the leopards in the park. We saw both a mother and a daughter separately. The daughter was hiding in the tree relaxing, but we were lucky enough to grab a glimpse of her face as the vehicle started its engine, and she was curious!
This was followed by a two-hour game drive, where we were fortunate enough to see elephants, buffaloes, warthogs and a variety of other wildlife. Queen Elizabeth National Park truly is a wildlife haven. We enjoyed a leisurely afternoon at the lodge, before heading up to the top of a crater lake to see the sunset.
We embarked on a scenic six-hour drive south to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. The journey was a visual feast, showcasing Uganda’s stunning landscapes. We arrived at our lodge in time for lunch and spent the afternoon exploring a local village, interacting with the community and visiting the local school. Many of the group had brought supplies from the UK, and this was the last opportunity to get them handed out!
The day we had all been waiting for! After an early breakfast, we headed to the park headquarters for a briefing before our gorilla trekking adventure. Our group was split into two separate groups to track different families. The group I was in was tracking the Mucunguzi Group, which consisted of 18 gorillas.
The trek itself was challenging, navigating the steep slopes and dense vegetation of the “impenetrable” forest. But hopefully, the reward was going to be beyond worth it.
You had the option of hiring a porter for the trek; this cost was $30. They were there to carry your bags and support you. I personally didn’t feel I needed one, but once the role of a porter was explained to us – it was a no-brainer.
To stop the locals from poaching in the forest, they are given the option once a month to work on a rota to have the opportunity to be a porter. You pay the porter the $30 directly at the end of the trek, so you know all of the money is going directly to them. This was the reason I took the porter – I didn’t want someone having to wait another month to have the opportunity to be a porter again. They also walked alongside you the whole trek, and my chap’s English was very good, so I was able to ask lots of questions and learn from him as well – well worth the $30!
We spent around 2 hours trekking into the forest to find our family. Trackers had gone out ahead of us to try and follow them. Our guides were in regular contact with trackers, keeping them informed of which direction we needed to keep heading.
The excitement soon increased as we reached a clearing and met our trackers. We left our bags and walking sticks in the clearing and followed them to meet our family.
We quickly saw them, and the tears started for a few of our group members. We were so close! We had to wear face masks to protect them, but my biggest surprise was the 8m rule. We were so much closer than 8 metres; in fact, I think it would have been impossible to see them if we had to maintain the 8m rule. The gorillas were so inquisitive, and it was them that were approaching us.
Spending an hour with a gorilla family was a truly humbling and awe-inspiring experience. Witnessing these magnificent creatures in their natural environment was a moment I know none of us will ever forget. It was the highlight of the trip, a dream come true.
That afternoon was spent in the bar! It was time to decompress on what had happened that morning. It was great that we had split into 2 groups, as there were two stories to tell. Photos and videos were shared, and we heard from everyone’s experience.
This was our last proper night, so after a final group meal, it was time for a few more drinks and another game of ‘Shithead’ around the table!
After breakfast, we made the five-hour drive to Kigali. It was about a 2 ½ hour drive to the Rwandan border; it probably took around 1.5 hours to get through the checkpoint. All the bags had to come off the bus and be checked, vehicles had to be checked and so did all our paperwork.
With passports stamped, we were on our way again to Kigali. We had plenty of time before our flight that evening. We decided we would visit the Kigali Genocide Memorial and Museum. Although it was a very solemn place to visit, it really was a memorial to both those who lost their lives and also the survivors. I always think whenever you visit a country, it is so important to learn about the history of where you are visiting. I obviously already knew about the genocide in Rwanda, but now I certainly feel I know the full story after this visit.
Once we had finished at the museum, it was time to head to the airport and get ready for our flight home. As we were approaching the airport, I got the dreaded email – ‘Your Flight Has a Two Hour Delay’ – Brilliant!
That’s 5 hours in the airport now waiting for our evening flight home. I quickly made the decision to check into the lounge, and the rest of the group followed. It was $40 for the lounge access, and there was a good selection of food and drink. The best bit for one of the travellers, though, was it had a phone box you could smoke in, and this saved him £10 every hour!!
There was also time for one more game of ‘ShitHead’ – no-one wants to leave the trip as the ShitHead!!
We took off around 1.30 am, 2 hours later than planned for the 8.5-hour flight. But at least it just meant I was ready to put the seat back and get a good night’s sleep!
We arrived back at Heathrow in the morning, and everyone said their goodbyes – I think there have definitely been some new friendships made for life on this trip!
This Uganda trip was a resounding success. From the bustling cities to the tranquil national parks, Uganda offered a diverse and enriching experience. The wildlife encounters were truly exceptional, and the gorilla trekking was the highlight of a lifetime. The group bonded well, and the local people we met were warm and welcoming. Uganda is a beautiful country with so much to offer, and I’m already looking forward to leading another trip there soon!
For more information on this trip – Please Visit Our Gorilla Trekking Uganda Page
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